
WILMINGTON — It’s been a year-and-a-half since James Smith was overseeing his restaurant Smoke on the Water before unexpectedly passing away. Now, his family has acquired it from their loved one’s business partner to continue the legacy.
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James Smith’s brother, Dustin, and his mother, Diane, has taken over the establishment. All employees remain in place and the restaurant is operating per normal.
“The phone call came in last week and we got it over the weekend,” Dustin told Port City Daily Wednesday.
Details of the acquisition remain undisclosed, but Dustin said they are happy to continue honoring his brother, whose passions were his restaurants — Fork n Cork and Smoke on the Water included. James also owned Bone & Bean with Dustin, but it shuttered in the middle of the Covid-19 pandemic.
“As my mom put it, it’s nice to get part of her boy back, and for me it’s like having part of my brother back,” Dustin said.
The Smiths took over the Fork n Cork restaurants outright when James passed — the Carolina Beach location closed, but the downtown eatery remains open. However, Smoke on the Water remained under the purview of James’ business partner, Allan Middleton.
Located in the Riverlights community along the banks of the Cape Fear River, Smoke opened in 2016 with Middleton — a local real estate agent, who formerly owned and operated Robert’s Grocery in Wrightsville Beach — investing primarily as a silent partner. James Smith devised the menu and ran day-to-day operations, effectively becoming the face of the restaurant.
Middleton told PCD last year he always wanted to open a location with James, but the timing never panned out until the waterfront restaurant became an option.
When James passed away, Middleton and his family, including his sons, attempted to step in and fill in the gaps but didn’t have a lot of restaurant experience. Dustin said he was approached last year about purchasing the eatery but the timing wasn’t right. Instead, the Middletons brought in consultant Christi Ferretti, whom the family had known from frequenting her restaurant and catering business, Pine Valley Market.
Ferretti signed a year consulting agreement, which was up this week, and worked to help reorganize the restaurant.
“I am incredibly proud of the progress we have made during this time — enhancing customer service, elevating food quality and ensuring a stronger foundation,” Ferretti sent media in a statement.
She also tapped Chef Jessica Cabo to consult and devise changes to the menu, which added more fresh seafood, to cover the “Water” part of the restaurant name. Cabo told Port City Daily last year “the ‘Smoke’ part was already covered,” as tasted in popular selections like wings, the burger and brisket.
Dustin said there will be changes coming to the menu, but it will be done in stages. He wants to get into the kitchen first to see what’s in place. Items he is looking forward to serving include Texas poutine and Smoke’s original mac and cheese recipe, plus he hopes to introduce Bone & Bean items here and there; the restaurant focused on smoked ribs, sausages, pork and chicken.
“We run them as specials at Fork n Cork and they always sell out,” Dustin said. “I also would like to match a broader range of price points.”
He plans to keep the front-of-the-house management on for as long as she will stay. Ferretti asked Khristen Hunter, the 2023 Own Your Own winner, to help with oversight last spring.
However, Hunter is on borrowed time, as she is in the process of constructing her new eatery, Patty’s Place, to be located at 106/108 West Courthouse Ave. in Burgaw. It’s slated to open in June.
Dustin said Wednesday he has heard nothing but praise regarding her hospitality. He hasn’t made any decisions past that, such as hiring a lead chef, but plans to oversee the kitchen himself at first and promote within if someone shows potential and interest.
“My goal, ultimately, is to get it to where it was, using favorites from past, present and engage future ideas,” Dustin said. “We’re excited — there’s a great clientele down there.”
The Middleton family released a statement Wednesday thanking Ferretti and Hunter for their dedication and hard work:
“Christi played a vital role in assessing operations and steering Smoke on the Water in the right direction, ensuring the restaurant maintained its commitment to quality and excellence,” adding Hunter’s leadership made as much of an indelible contribution.
More so, they said returning the restaurant’s stewardship to James’ family felt appropriate in honoring his legacy.
“We appreciate the continued support of our loyal patrons,” the Middleton family wrote in the statement, “and look forward to the next chapter in the restaurant’s journey.”
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